Getting Your Sidel and Krones Heating Lamps Right
If you’ve spent any time around PET stretch blow molding, you know the struggle. One wrong move with your thermal profile and you’re looking at wall thinning or that annoying pearlescence. It’s a headache you just don’t need. That’s why we make replacement infrared lamps that actually fit. Whether you’re running an old-school SBO line or a modern Matrix series, we’ve got you covered. The power side of things Here’s the deal with power density: these lamps run on high-voltage circuits because you need that heat flux to preheat fast. We build our tubes to match your OEM wattage and voltage exactly. Now, a high-wattage lamp is great for fast cycle times, but it does put a bit more stress on your power supplies. Just a heads-up—if you crank up the wattage without double-checking your cabling, you’re asking for a premature burnout. It’s worth the five minutes of checking to save hours of downtime. No drilling, no bending, no fuss We use high-purity quartz glass and halogen gas fills to keep the filaments alive longer. But the real win is the fit. We use specific end-caps—like R7s or Sk15—so they just slide right into your existing sockets. We’re obsessed with the physical footprint. You won’t be drilling new holes or bending brackets here. You just pull the old tube out and drop the new one in. Simple. A few things to keep in mind Matching the OEM specs keeps your heat distribution even across the preform, which is exactly what you want. But there’s a catch. Higher-output lamps put more heat on your oven’s cooling fans. If your vents are clogged or the fans are acting up, these lamps will run hotter than they should. And when they run too hot, they don’t last as long. We designed these for a direct swap. You get the same heat as the original parts, and you don’t have to spend your afternoon rewriting your machine’s heating profiles.